How to Plant Bare Root Fruit Trees

What Are Bare Root Trees?

Bare root trees are dormant trees sold without soil around their roots. They're typically available from late fall through early spring and offer several advantages: lower cost, easier handling, wider variety selection, and often better establishment than container-grown trees.

When to Plant

Plant bare root trees while they're dormant:

Zones 3-5: Early spring as soon as ground can be worked (March-April)
Zones 6-7: Late fall or early spring (November or February-March)
Zones 8-10: Winter (December-February)

Important: Never plant when ground is frozen or waterlogged.

Handling Bare Root Trees

Bare root trees are perishable—their roots must never dry out.

Upon Arrival:

Open packaging immediately and inspect roots.
If roots look dry, soak in water for 1-2 hours (never more than 24 hours).
Keep roots moist and protected from sun and wind.

If You Can't Plant Immediately:

Short term (1-2 days): Keep in original packaging in a cool, dark place. Mist roots if dry.
Longer term (up to 2 weeks): "Heel in" by digging a trench, laying trees at 45° angle, and covering roots with moist soil or mulch.

Site Selection

Sunlight: Most fruit trees need 6-8 hours of direct sun.
Drainage: Well-draining soil is essential. Fruit trees won't tolerate "wet feet."
Air Circulation: Good airflow reduces disease pressure.
Frost Pockets: Avoid low areas where cold air settles.
Spacing: Research mature size. Dwarf trees: 8-10 ft apart. Semi-dwarf: 12-15 ft. Standard: 20-25 ft.

Planting Steps

Step 1: Dig the Hole

Dig a hole 2-3 times wider than the root spread.
Depth should allow the graft union to sit 2-3 inches ABOVE soil level.
Roughen the sides of the hole to help roots penetrate.

Step 2: Prepare the Tree

Remove any broken, damaged, or circling roots with clean pruners.
Soak roots in water for 1-2 hours before planting.
Some growers dip roots in a mud slurry to prevent drying.

Step 3: Plant the Tree

Create a cone of soil in the center of the hole.
Place tree on cone, spreading roots evenly over and down the sides.
Ensure graft union (visible bump on trunk) is 2-3 inches above final soil level.
Backfill with native soil (don't add amendments to the hole).
Gently firm soil as you fill to eliminate air pockets.
Create a slight basin around the tree to hold water.

Step 4: Water Thoroughly

Immediately after planting, water deeply with 2-3 gallons. This settles soil around roots and eliminates air pockets. Water again if soil settles and add more soil as needed.

Step 5: Mulch

Apply 3-4 inches of organic mulch (wood chips, straw, or leaves).
Keep mulch 4-6 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
Extend mulch to the drip line if possible.

Step 6: Stake (If Necessary)

Staking is only necessary in windy areas or for top-heavy trees:

Use 2 stakes placed outside the root zone.
Attach with soft ties that allow some movement.
Remove stakes after one growing season.

Initial Pruning

Prune at planting time to balance top growth with reduced root system:

Unbranched whip: Cut back to 30-36 inches above ground.
Branched tree: Select 3-4 well-spaced scaffold branches and remove others. Head back remaining branches by 1/3.
Remove any branches below 24 inches.

First Year Care

Watering: Water deeply once per week (more in hot weather). New trees need 1-2 inches per week.
Fertilizing: Wait until tree shows new growth, then apply light nitrogen fertilizer.
Weed Control: Keep a 3-foot diameter weed-free zone around the trunk.
Pest Monitoring: Watch for deer, rabbits, and insect damage.
Remove Flowers: Pinch off any flowers the first year to direct energy to root establishment.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Planting too deep: Graft union must be above soil line.
Letting roots dry out: Even brief drying can kill a bare root tree.
Over-amending the planting hole: This can create a "pot effect" where roots don't venture into native soil.
Overwatering: Consistently wet soil causes root rot.
Piling mulch against trunk: Creates conditions for disease and rodent damage.